Kitchens

Typically: a dedicated cooker or hob supply, sockets above worktops, switched fused spurs for built-in appliances, under-cabinet and ceiling lighting, extractor supply, and often a separate socket circuit because kitchen loads are heavy.

The positions have to be agreed against the kitchen plan before first fix — appliance positions, which units are integrated, and where the isolation switches sit for appliances that are built in and cannot be reached.

A single built-in electric oven is often within the rating of a 13A plug and can go on a socket circuit — check the manufacturer's figure. A hob, especially induction, usually draws far more and needs a dedicated cooker circuit with a suitable cable and protective device.

Induction hobs are commonly rated at 7.4kW or more. Send the appliance model numbers with your enquiry — the rating plate decides this, not the appliance type.

Integrated appliances are usually fed from a switched fused connection unit, with the switch placed where it can actually be reached — above the worktop, or as a grid switch panel, rather than behind the appliance.

This matters for maintenance and in a fault: you want to be able to isolate a leaking dishwasher without pulling the unit out.

Yes, and it is one of the more worthwhile kitchen additions because it lights the worktop rather than your own shadow. LED strip or linear fittings are usual, with a driver that needs an accessible location for future replacement.

Decide on it before the kitchen is fitted — retro-fitting means working around installed units and finding a route for the driver and switching.

Usually from a switched fused connection unit so it can be isolated, positioned where it is reachable but not directly over the hob. Recirculating hoods and ducted hoods have the same electrical requirement; the difference is the ductwork.

Ventilation rates for kitchens come under Part F of the Building Regulations, so on a refit it is worth checking the extraction rate as well as the supply.